28th February 2013 Islamabad, Pakistan

Exploring Faisalabad

Now, I’m not one who normally gets passionate about sport.  I could have been certain that my first blog from Pakistan, where I recently arrived as the High Commission’s new Press Attaché, would not have been about sport.  But, I am surprisingly doing just that.

When I think of sport in Pakistan, cricket comes into my mind first.  It is after all seemingly played on every spare patch of flat ground throughout the country.  Hockey is also pretty popular here, too: the national teams have, in the past, led the world rankings for many years.  But I definitely wouldn’t think of tent pegging…

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I’m told many Pakistanis, particularly in rural areas, love watching tent pegging.  But it turns out there is a dedicated following in the UK, too.

I must admit I had never even heard of tent pegging before I turned up to watch the Faisalabad Agricultural Fair last week.  But it didn’t take long to get enthralled by the festivities, all set in a charming, laid back atmosphere.  Teams of horse riders, with spears in hand, charge on their decorated horses (think tassels, bells, coloured ribbons, etc.) towards a small wooden tent peg about 100 metres along a field.  The aim of the game is to impale the peg, and then for it to stay impaled by the time the horse reaches the end of the course.  Or at least that’s what I think the rules are!  The crowds cheered loudest when teams managed to get that result. Hand signals from the fearless umpires seemed to also award bonus points for jockeys’ style, bravery and speed.

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But did you know that Britain has its own tent pegging team?

It was great to see a British team, along with three South African groups, participating in Faisalabad.   It’s true to say that the team’s outfits were far less colourful than the Pakistani teams’: but the red, white and blue made the visitors easy to recognise whilst they charged down the course on the horses they borrowed from the event organiser. It also helped the group of us from the High Commission, who had travelled down from Islamabad, to know when to cheer even louder.  The Faisalabad crowd were also pretty pleased to see the international teams taking part in the local pastime – although many asked me why the international riders had replaced puffy white trousers, bright tailored jackets and turbans for health and safety gear.   Thousands roared when the British team, especially the women (the only females taking part in the normally male-dominated sport), impaled the wooden pegs.  The British competitors told me the sport emerged from British Cavalrymen practicing their skills on the saddle.  Pakistani spectators passionately told me the sport had its origins firmly in the villages of the Punjab.  Whatever the origins though, the event was a great way to spend an afternoon, making the most of the cool, sunny spring day.

Tent Pegging players

Alas, the British team didn’t win the competition that day.  But I guess you could argue they had a good excuse: they were competing on an unfamiliar course, on unfamiliar horses in an unfamiliar venue.  Nevertheless, the event organiser, local tribal leader Prince Malik Khan, was keen to have a British representation at the event.  The Prince’s home is very much in the Punjab.  But he is also a regular visitor to the UK where he raises horses on a small farm on the Surrey/Sussex borders.

Faisalabad’s historic connections to the UK are not solely based around tent pegging.  The main bazaar is built in the shape of the Union flag (when viewed from above at least) and the town’s clock tower has a definite resemblance to London’s Queen Elizabeth Tower (recently renamed from St Stephen’s Tower during the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee last year): more commonly known as Big Ben.

Clock tower in Faisalabad

At the High Commission, we’re currently running a campaign called Celebrating Connections.  We’ll have to add tent pegging to the long list of UK-Pakistan connections – cultural, educational, sporting, trade – which help to underline the unique relationship between our two countries.

19 comments on “Exploring Faisalabad

  1. It was a red letters day in October,2006 British high commissioner grand Mark Lyall Grant the grand son of founder of city visited Faisalabad .One of the oldest building Chenab Club est in 1910 was the venue of historic event .Mr Lyall ed the opening ceremony of Lyallpur Hall built in commemorationGreat effort British High Commission…! I would like to thank you for exploring my country and especially my city Faisalabad and it is admirable that you have shown the bright image of our country to the world in this article.

  2. Pleased to know that an international tent pegging competition was organized in Faisalabad.

  3. Great effort British High Commission…! I would like to thank you for exploring my country and especially my city Faisalabad and it is admirable that you have shown the bright image of our country to the world in this article. 🙂

  4. It was a red letters day in October,2006 British high commissioner grand Mark Lyall Grant the grand son of founder of city visited Faisalabad .One of the oldest building Chenab Club est in 1910 was the venue of historic event .Mr Lyall ed the opening ceremony of Lyallpur Hall built in commemoration

  5. It was renamed On September 1,1977 after the monarch king of Saudi Arabia who never visited the town .

  6. Faisalabad formally known Lyallpur raised in 1896 named after Lt Governor Punjab James Broad Wood Lyall in 1896 .It was purpose built city designed by first colonisation officer Popham Young .The purpose behind establishing canal system for the growth of wheat ,Cotton and other crops .Lyallpur was known as the Granary of India

  7. As Team Captain of the UK visitors I would like to say how overwhelmed we were by the hospitality and warm welcome we received in Pakistan.

    It was a truly memorable experience as well as good sport (we won three medals in the end). To compete in front of 10,000 or more people a day was fantastic and the crowd exceeded our wildest expectations even on the practiice day. I do hope we can continue to forge new sporting links with Pakistan in sports such as Tent Pegging as we have a strong common interest and one that is truly inclusive of all nations.

    Michael Smith

  8. Thank you for such a great write up on the English team competing at The Four Nations International Tent pegging Competition held in Faisalabad. I was one of the three ladies riding there & we all felt very honoured that you had taken time out & made the long drive from Islamabad to Faisalabad to come & see us in action.

    I would just like to add that by the end of The Three days of Competition we returned to England having lifted 2 silver & 3 bronze medals! ( of which, 1 silver & 2 bronze were entirely down to the Ladies!)

  9. Thank you Jon, for sharing such a beautiful image of Pakistan. Enjoyed reading it. hope to see more.

  10. Nice to know your interest in FaIsalabad .I have authored 6 books on Lyallpur the formar name of Faiasal abad

  11. This made me remember the famous, “Horse & Cattle Show”, in Lahore where I used to go every year with my parents. People from all over Pakistan used to come to that show with their animals. It showcased the sporting events like this and their prized animals.

  12. It is good to see a British Tent Pegging team, taking part in this popular rural sport. This could be made an annual event, banded to gather with a polo match.

  13. LOL Hahaha Amused 😉 You Should See The Local Kubbudi Competition In Faisalabad And Come To Sialkot Cantt Cathedral Church Its Beautiful 🙂

  14. Interesting to read the writing on Faisalabad ! What a metaphysical connection between Faisalabad’s Clocktower (The Ghanta Ghar) and London’s Big Ben ….I would like to read more . Wil liams has a keen observation indeed!

  15. I am also Faisalabadi. Thank u very much British High Commission to Exploring my city in all over the world. The British flag is also map of Faisalabad city that is called as Clock Tower of Faisalabad that is the great remembrance of British Empire.I love my city Faisalabad and my present city London. Thank u again British High Commission Islamabad.

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About Jonathan Williams

Growing up in London and studying in Birmingham have given me a good introduction to Pakistan. The people-to-people links between Pakistan and these two great British cities remain incredibly strong.…

Growing up in London and studying in Birmingham have given me a good introduction to Pakistan. The people-to-people links between Pakistan and these two great British cities remain incredibly strong. In these blogs, I aim to celebrate the connections between the UK and Pakistan, exploring places, food, culture, sport and other musings during my posting here.

I have been Press Attaché since November 2012. Whilst I am supposedly an Urdu speaker, I remain far from fluent. But I enjoyed spending six months learning Urdu before arriving in Islamabad. My previous roles in the Foreign and Commonwealth Office include: Assistant Private Secretary to the Minister for Africa; Operational Lead in the FCO’s Olympics Coordination Centre during London 2012 and Desk Officer in Afghanistan Department, where I worked on regional political issues. Before joining the Diplomatic Service I worked on the Cabinet Office’s Public Service Reform Programme, as an English teacher in Guangzhou, China and in Westminster as a caseworker for a Member of Parliament.

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