Martin Uden

Ambassador to the Republic of Korea

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Friday 13 March, 2009

Guest Blogger-Peter Hughes, British Ambassador to North Korea

I am delighted to have been asked to contribute a few paragraphs about Pyongyang to Martin Uden's blog while he is away taking a well earned break.

Spring seems to have arrived in Pyongyang, much the same as I suppose it has in Seoul. The weather during the weekend was relatively warm and sunny for the elections of  the 12th Supreme People's Assembly that took place on Sunday 8 March. There was a very festive atmosphere throughout the city. Many people were walking to or from the polling stations, or thronging the parks to have picnics or just stroll. Most of the ladies were dressed in the colourful traditional hanguk pokshik and the men in their best suits. Outside the central polling stations there were bands playing and people dancing and singing to entertain the queues of voters waiting patiently to select their representatives in the country's unicameral legislature. The booths selling drinks and snacks were very popular with the crowds and everyone seemed to be having a good time. The list of successful candidates was published on Monday. There was a reported turn-out of over 99% of the voters and all the candidates, including Kim Jong Il, were elected with 100% approval. In a few weeks time the Supreme People's Assembly will open for business which will include voting for the Chairman of the National Defence Committee (presently Kim Jong Il), and drawing up the budget for the coming financial year.

The city has returned to normal since the weekend, and people are going about their business much as they usually do. However, the sunny weather and warmer temperatures have encouraged the parks and roadside verges to begin turning green again after the long winter. During the afternoons, long columns of schoolchildren can be seen marching through the streets in their blue uniforms with red neckerchiefs, carrying red banners and flags that encourage the people to launch a "general offensive in response to the Party's call to make a historic leap on all fronts, and sounding the advance for opening the gate to a strong, powerful and prosperous nation in 2012, the centenary of the birth of the Great Eternal Leader Kim Il Sung". The children sing songs and chant slogans as they either walk gaily hand in hand, or march solemnly by.

There has been a lot of activity preparing the small plots of land around blocks of apartments for sowing a spring crop of vegetables and herbs, and last week the government announced a nationwide 'reforestation' programme under which millions of saplings are to be planted throughout the country. The people in Pyongyang have taken this programme very seriously and have planted young trees every six metres or so along all the pavements, and within the apartment complexes. Every evening people can be seen tending the saplings they put into the ground just a few days ago, while at intervals ladies are sitting selling cigarettes or sweets from small tables they have set up by the roadside.

Posted at 15:28 13 March 2009 by Martin Uden  |  Comments[29]

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Is this meant to be some sort of insight from someone who works for the UK Govt, or is this just a press release from the North Korea news agency ?

Posted by David on March 14, 2009 at 01:12 PM KST #

The DPRK sounds like such a fascinating country. I'm currently based in Hong Kong and would like nothing more than to visit Pyongyang over May Day. The culture, the mindset, the Ryugyong Hotel-unique. Unfortunately a student budget doesn't quite stretch the 800 odd pounds I calculate it to cost! I shall carry on dreaming...

Posted by James Roberts on March 15, 2009 at 01:54 AM KST #

Peter Hughes, you make North Korea sound like an Idyllic place to live.

Posted by Kevin Conroy on March 15, 2009 at 02:57 PM KST #

This is a comment from our guest blogger-Peter Hughes, British Ambassador to North Korea: Some people have commented that my entry last week made North Korea sound idyllic, and read like a press release issued by the North Korea news agency. I do not apologise for portraying Pyongyang as a normal city because in many ways it is. The people in this city have lives that are normal to them and they celebrate the coming of spring in the same way that people do all over the world. The elections and the good weather gave them an opportunity to enjoy a day out with their families, and the entertainment would have been a light episode in what is otherwise a difficult environment. However, the songs played by the bands at polling stations would have been tributes to the system and it's leaders, not ballads or traditional melodies. The elections were the same as such events everywhere with voters turning out in their hundreds, but there were no opposition candidates: in fact there was only one person standing for each seat which is why all the candidates were elected with 100 approval; and there was a 99 turn out because the compulsory voting was strictly enforced. The children marching in columns through the city in their uniforms would not have been singing nursery rhymes, they would have been singing songs about such things as engaging fully in the "ardent march", and their chants would have been political slogans. The preparations for planting food in plots of land around apartment buildings are a stark reminder that DPRK agricultural policies have resulted in chronic food shortages and the population never have enough to eat. They grow food on every available piece of land as a necessity not a hobby. This is not an idyllic country, and there are none of the luxuries and benefits that are taken for granted elsewhere. The policies of the government have resulted in deep economic stagnation for decades, and have isolated the country from the rest of the world through a worrying nuclear programme, provocative military confrontation with the South, and a brutal human rights record. My entry in Martin Uden's blog was not intended as political commentary, rather it was an opportunity to show that Pyongyang is not an dark and evil place populated by demons, but a city inhabited by human beings who make the best of their lives in spite of the difficulties they face on a daily basis.

Posted by Peter Hughes on March 16, 2009 at 02:41 PM KST #

Thanks for the reply Peter hope that's not too informal. I am sure you are one of the most informed persons on the situation in North Korea and have a difficult job representing Britaiin in such a place. I commented that the post portrayed Pyongyang as 'idyllic' as a sceptical questioning of the relatively relaxed and passive comment on one of the most repressive regimes in the world. However your reply points at your humane attempt to seperate the people from the state. Now that I understand this was your intention I thank you for the reminder that the North Korean people are only trying to enjoy a fruitful spring during dark times. Do you have your own blog?

Posted by Kevin Conroy on March 16, 2009 at 04:53 PM KST #

This is a comment from our guest blogger-Peter Hughes, British Ambassador to North Korea: Thank you for your comments Kevin, it is important to try to separate the people from the state in a totalitarian regime such as North Korea. The people suffer greatly, yet life still goes on. I regret that I do not have a blog because the technology to set one up is not available to us here.

Posted by Peter Huges on March 17, 2009 at 04:09 PM KST #

It's lovely to have a nice cheery picture of people enjoying the elections in North Korea but I can't help wondering if this rose-tinted view rather misses the bigger issues. North Korea is a brutal and secretive state with a long record of torture, execution and appalling treatment of its people that barely needs to be refrained here. A 100 approval rating for unopposed candidates isn't news and a 99 turnout merely highlights that 1 of the population will "offered" "re-education" shortly. Has Our Man In Pyongyang gone native?

Posted by Colm Howard-Lloyd on March 17, 2009 at 09:48 PM KST #

You mean you really think those people went on to vote 100 for the guy who led them into misery and hunger? Are you at least allowed to talk to people in the street? Or are they so terrified they don't dare to talk to you?

Posted by Catelu on March 17, 2009 at 11:59 PM KST #

I take it by that you mean that embassies in dprk are authorised to have an internet connection but just that it is severely restricted and material is monitored by the authorities. An fco blog from uk staff there would be fantastic although unrealistic. There were reports some years ago that, increasingly, foreign books and other media material were being viewed by citizens there, despite a blanket ban. I wonder whether the situation has changed.

Posted by Francis on March 18, 2009 at 01:55 AM KST #

Peter comments that: "it was an opportunity to show that Pyongyang is not an dark and evil place populated by demons" Who has said that? Go on, direct us to the blog entry or news article that made such comments. You won't be able to because no one has. If anything news on North Korea says that Pyongyang is one of those places where people aren't starving to death in droves, but that's because it's the capital, the Idiot Leader has to keep face and even so the shelves can still be empty at least of luxuries. I'm not saying you're a mouthpiece for the regime, but given that this was your first entry on the matter you could have written a more honest comment about the general state of affairs rather than sweep all the difficult stuff under the carpet. Otherwise we can only assume that your lack of mentioning the fact you're the rep to one of the world's worst human rights abusers doesn't make you uncomfortable and you see this as just a rung on your career ladder.

Posted by JC on March 18, 2009 at 06:22 AM KST #

Ambassador Hughes: While it is a laudable idea, separating the people from the state, I question if this is a good idea, given the level of indoctrination and hate the people feel for the 'enemy'. Do they still conduct daily air raid drills warning of the imperialist Americans designs on their laned? Those songs you mention the children singing, as they goosestep down the streets, do they, or do they not, 'encourage' the honorable of killing the capitalist enemy? I assert that people of North Korea have been indoctrinated unlike any other people in modern history, and thus should be treated with caution. We shouldn't be so quick to separate them from the state, or call them 'normal' in any sense of the word.

Posted by Matthew Clancy on March 18, 2009 at 09:27 AM KST #

At first reading, Mr Hughes' guest blog does seem a little Lucy in the Sky, with it's gay and colorful snack - chewing people frolicking about in the parks of Pyongyang, the capitol of a state often described as the world's largest prison. But when you take into account the fact that he lives and works in the DPRK as a representative of the British government, it would appear that he has taken the right tack with this rosy, apolitical observation rather than the usual outraged Kafkaesque rant. Indeed, as the translation makes its way through the various ministries the chances are some good comrade or other will seize the day and recommend Mr Hughes for a 'Hero of the People' medal, giving him, among other things, greater travel priviledges. After all, you don't get to live anywhere near Pyongyang without being connected and toeing the Party line, so there's no harm in his describing the obvious.

Posted by Rod Lester on March 18, 2009 at 01:52 PM KST #

Matthew. The population are constantly reminded that they remain at war. Air raid drills are still carried out, but not on a daily basis. The songs children sing usually glorify the revolution, or praise the wisdom and exploits of the leaders Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il. I have not heard of them singing songs that encourage killing the enemy.

Posted by Peter Hughes on March 18, 2009 at 02:59 PM KST #

Seems to meet that a lot of people do not understand the meaning of "reading between the lines".

Posted by Mark on March 18, 2009 at 05:24 PM KST #

Ambassador Hughes: thank you for reminding us that North Koreans, as with most people who live under a brutal dictatorship, have the same loves, fears and small enjoyments as all of us. It's how we -- as humans -- keep going.

Posted by ansp on March 19, 2009 at 04:52 PM KST #

Reading the incredibly ignorant and ill-informed comments here, it is reassuring to know we have someone as open minded as Peter Hughes representing our nation in the DPRK. I know a few people who have been to the DPRK, all present a similar picture of a decent, curteous, educated and dedicated people striving to make the best of what they have. Likewise the few North Koreans I have met have been polite, warm and freindly. Certainly not the demons and fanatics we are led to beleive. Engagement based on mutual respect and understanding is what is required in our dealing with the DPRK, or indeed any other country, if we are to encourage openess and trust in our international relations. Indeed this is surely the ABC of modern diplomacy? Or would the comment makers on the FCO boards prefer a return to the grandstanding and bullying gunboat diplomacy of the past when dealing with johnny foreigner and his heathen ways?

Posted by James on March 19, 2009 at 08:53 PM KST #

Dear James: It seems that some "open-minded" people, especially those who have actually been to Pyongyang which is as far as most aliens can go, are, ironically, highly selective about the information regarding North Korea they decide to take in. You should know that Pyongyang is in fact a propaganda city intended to appear to outsiders as a paradise inhabited by a perfectly happy and normal populace. Nobility by birth yes, North Korea is a class society de jure and absence of physical/psychological disabilities is a requirement to entering, let alone living in, Pyongyang. Do you recall ever seeing anyone with a missing limb in Pyongyang? A beggar or alcoholic on the streets? This is not to mention that the slightest display or discontent towards the system while in Pyongyang would result in permanent eviction from Pyongyang at minimum. Did you know that elementary schools across North Korea indoctrinate students to report their own parents' suspicious speech or behavior at home to authorities? Or do you know anything about what would happen to a family and all of its relatives once they are ordered out of Pyongyang? If you ever utter a word to any ordinary North Korean in Pyongyang about anything remotely related to politics or even happiness in life, they will show their true fanatical side and allow you to ponder over what it means to be North Korean in Pyongyang. Buying the image of Pyongyang's peaceful and ordinary daily life as it appears is not an act of open-mindedness. It is the most close-minded one could ever be about the surrounding realities.

Posted by HJK on March 20, 2009 at 03:22 PM KST #

I don't think Martin Ulden's blog has ever seen so much activity. I wonder how he will feel when after months of blogging with no comments Peter Hughes turns up and starts a debating chamber. I think the British Ambassador to DPRK pointed out on his second post how he wished to seperate the people from the politics. This, in my opinion, is a legitimate stance. However reading the comment by James I fear he has the wrong end of the stick aswell. I don't think anyone wants to return to gun boat diplomacy and 'grandstanding' ways, prefering brutal action over the art of diplomacy. However if you wish to engage the DPRK's regime 'based on mutual respect and understanding' then you might as well say goodbye to all yours values and any freedom you have ever defended. That is why the definition of the people from the state is important, as the ambassdor notes the people are just like everyone else. The British government in the North should help to facilitate NGOs , promote sound domestic policies which will benefit the public, and work towards a favourable representation of Britain to the population. However at the political level we can not engage with the DPRK as an equal partner. Ambassadors and envoys can engage as they see fit, always courteously, often undertanding, but never can we argue that the DPRK's leaders deserves mutual respect. Not only are the regimes value systems the antipathy of our own but they also represent a parasitic and war mongering nation; a threat to Asian economics and stability and international peace. If you will not condemn a regime such as that James at least privately then you can not preach any morality publicly. Ambassador Hughes?

Posted by Kevin Conroy on March 20, 2009 at 06:21 PM KST #

As I and my friends experienced, the election day was a really nice day in Pyongyang. We had a chance to join their celebrations; singing and dancing around. People in Pyongyang are like any other people you may come across in the other parts of the world. Don't people have celebrations in the U.S.A after elections? Why is it difficult to belive that people in Pyongyang were doing the same?

Posted by xx on March 23, 2009 at 08:27 PM KST #

This is fascinating! I wasn't even aware that the UK had representation in North Korea? Whilst I have researched and understand the situation in the country as best as I can from studying internet sources, the media reports we view never once gave me the impression that the DPRK was somewhere that the UK would have an ambassador. Do you have internet there? I have a few questions I wonder if you might be interested to answer , they are just trivial and may seem silly but still... It's fascinating to wonder about "every day" life. 1. What if you get hungry on an evening? Where can you go to get something to eat? Are there shops, in the sense that we are used to? Can you buy things like sandwiches, coke, chocolate? 2. We often are given the impression people walk around Pyongyang in silence in fear of speaking or smiling, is this true? Whats an average street scene on a morning? Do you ever get to chat to "regular" North Koreans? 3. Is Pyongyang and its grandeur of iconic constructons really a facade reserved for Government connected people only? Or is this an exaggeration of the media? ie. do regular, normal North Koreans live in those apartments too? 4. When the night draws in, is there anywhere to go? Anything to do? Shopping? Cinema? Cafes? Fascinating! Apologies to those people offended by trivial questions, I think we are all aware enough of the regime to perhaps not focus on it so much in this context. I am just interested in how the people of North Korea continue to live .

Posted by John Barston on March 26, 2009 at 10:58 AM KST #

@ I regret that I do not have a blog because the technology to set one up is not available to us here I'm not very familiar with their infrastructure but am fairly sure they have fantastic Internet services over there. Are you saying that they run a firewall which stops you from accessing certain sites where you could create a blog?

Posted by Matthew Anderson on April 13, 2009 at 05:08 PM KST #

Its rather odd to hear that it seems the North Koreans actually derived more enjoyment in voting in their 'election', than UK voters have in voting in ours! I wouldn't mind a festival atmosphere every voting day!

Posted by Leadership Expert on April 13, 2009 at 06:14 PM KST #

I seem to have missed the beginnings of this argument or debate, regardless of how you look at it Peter Hughes was absolutely right to express his thoughts in the way he did. His comments after the event when others were critical, he stated "city inhabited by human beings" he also said "Pyongyang is not an dark and evil place populated by demons". I noticed what Kevin Conroy said "Now that I understand". Well so do I!! I always thought over diplomatic objective with the likes of North Korea was engagement and not confrontation, who said the people of North Korea were the enemy?? Well done Peter.

Posted by Omar on April 17, 2009 at 11:47 AM KST #

Thanks for taking a few moments to blog, it sounds like you have such a busy and multicultured life that I don't know how you tie yourself down to a laptop for an hour! I'd be out there exploring if I was in your shoes :. This blog post is consistent with what I've learnt of the North Korean culture when I visited on holiday - they're a proud people, who aren't embarassed of being happy with themselves like us Brits are.

Posted by Chrome Plating Dude on May 10, 2009 at 06:00 PM KST #

Interesting blog - more please! Not quite sure why Peter Hughes has been subjected to such a tirade of abuse for posting this blog. He's not endorsing the system - he's just describing what is normal life for Pyongyang residents. You have to separate the politics from the people. Like anywhere else in the world, most of them are decent, moral people who want a good future for their children. To view them all as rabid, hammer-and-sickle wielding commies is just as one-dimensional and short-sighted as the view that is often presented to them of the outside world by the political regime that governs them. Blogs such as this show us that in many ways they are just the same as us. The more contact they have with the West by way of tourism or exchange programmes will show them the same. Surely that's the best way forward for everyone?

Posted by davmilmcc on June 11, 2009 at 10:26 PM KST #

To davmilmcc, chromeplating Dude, Omar and James.... Good comments ! An interesting blog entry indeed

Posted by Marcus on June 18, 2009 at 12:13 AM KST #

Good job mr Hughes! great article! not the boring same lies that we have to read all the time in CNN and BBC

Posted by humor Azul on June 29, 2009 at 11:49 PM KST #

I am delighted to have discovered Ambassador Uden's blog and the contribution from Ambassador Hughes regarding spring in Pyongyang. I see that the last comment from Ambassador Hughes was posted on March 18, just one day after North Korea arrested 2 American journalists at the Tumen River border area. If a "summer in Pyongyang" contribution is possibly forthcoming, would it be possible to comment on what the diplomatic community in Pyongyang aside from Sweden's ambassador is saying about the American reporters? I would also be keen on hearing what the average North Korean knows about the American prisoners; is it a topic touted in media that citizens have normal access to? Perhaps Ambassador Hughes can ask some of the ladies sitting by the roadside selling cigarettes or sweets from small tables?

Posted by Spelunker on July 03, 2009 at 04:25 PM KST #

thankss

Posted by sohbet odaları on October 02, 2009 at 10:20 PM KST #

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